Well, it wasn’t actually THE Ascension Day here in France – that was celebrated a couple of weeks ago. But it certainly felt like a day of ascension for us. It all started as we were having breakfast sitting on our terrace (overlooking the Mediterranean sea – I know, it’s tough, it really is). We noticed a ladder being propped up against a neighbouring house and three guys climbing up it. They then began fixing the roof, standing up and walking around as if they were on a footpath, rather than FOUR STORIES UP. No appropriate safety helments or ropes or scaffolding – as Margaret put it “nothing appropriate whatsoever!”. It was a little unnerving to watch.

Durelle had suggested we visit the medieval village of Eze (it’s so great holidaying with people who have experience of the area!), so after breakfast we set off to catch a bus to the village. Our trusty Google Maps advised us that it was a thirteen minute walk to the bus stop. Ha! What Google Maps did not say, was that we would have to ascend a seemingly eternal staircase to get there. Just when we would get to the top of one flight of stairs, another staircase would appear. And another. And another. And so on. Ascend them all we did. And despite a few drops of rain, we were well warmed-up by the time we finally stopped ascending!

Durelle was right, the village of Eze is lovely. We started with a visit to the factory laboratory of Fragonard Parfumeur. The House of Fragonard has been manufacturing perfumes since 1926, with three locations in France. The factory in Eze has been operating since 1968. Entry was free and we had a wonderful (real live person) guide. It was fascinating learning about the processes and techniques involved in extracting the essential oils and creating or “composing” the perfumes. Who would have thought it would take ten years to train to be a “Nose”. The tour ended in the shop (funny that). But the factory prices were so good compared to those in the retail shops, and so M and I saved an enormous amount of money by what we spent. Well that’s how we see it anyhow. I didn’t take any photos as it was all grown up and serious during the tour and I felt like taking photos would be a bit touristy – even though everyone there was a tourist. Silly I know. So I found these ones online …

Feeling somewhat lighter – financially anyway – we carried on with our day’s theme of onwards and upwards, and made our way up through the winding streets of the medieval village of Eze. I know I have already mentioned how wonderful these old villages are, but I will do it again. These old villages are wonderful! They really are. Sigh. There were plenty of gorgeous doors, windows and flowers, as well as an amazing array of arty shops and even a fancy-schmancy hotel. Clive wanted to stop in at the hotel’s restaurant for a glass of champagne (only 190 euro – a glass) but champagne’s not really my go-to, not at that particular restaurant anyway.

Eze has a population of 2,300ish people and its inhabitants are known as Ezasques – pretty funky. It was populated around 200BC and its fortifications and castles date from around 1000AD. Clive somehow had the energy to walk right to the top and catch the view. Myself, K and M had a rest and watched the peps. I have borrowed a couple of photos from Clive of the view though.

We caught another bus back down to sea level (how the bus driver manages those hairpin bends, I do not know) and then caught a train to Nice. Nice town is a bit, well, towny. I really think I’m more of a village girl.

But Keith and Margaret were great as guides here as they’ve had a wee bit of experience in Nice too, and so they directed us towards the water – yay! We walked alongside the harbour, admiring the ocean on one side and the impressive buildings on the other.

They then led us to the old town where there is a market – every day! Whoop!!

And another fabulous church…

By this time we realised we had been on the flat for far too long, and it was about time we found something to walk up. Thankfully K and M knew about a castle (well the remains of its defensive walls anyhow) – on a hill. It is ninety-two meters to the top. Thankfully K and M also knew about a lift that would take us to said top. Cheating? Hey, we walked down so that’s gotta count for something.

The Castle Hill of Nice was first colonised by the Greeks between 500 and 300BC. By the eleventh century AD, the hill had a medieval castle and a bustling hilltop village. As the village outgrew its hilltop location, it became establised in what is now known as Old Town Nice at bottom of the hill, and the castle on the hilltop became a military citadel until the 18th century. Beset by beseigers several times during its lifetime as a castle, it was finally destroyed in 1706 at the command of Louis XIV. Hmm, not sure if that was the wisest decision as it has pretty amazing views overlooking the Mediterranean and the Nice metropolitan area. Maybe he thought it was just too far from the beach.

That was about enough ascending for one day so we walked back down the stairs to the waterfront, strolled around the port area and caught a bus home, where Mike and Durelle (who had themselves walked for several hours today but sensibly more on the level) had cooked us a beautiful dinner. We were extremely grateful.

22,935 steps today. I have sore feet.